Yabane

YABANE SCARF 矢羽 ya (arrow) hane->bane (feather) (jap.) - “fletchings, feathers of the arrow”

'Shaping of this scarf is inspired by the feathers of Hamaya - a “demon-breaking arrow”, a decorative arrow sold at shrines at New Year’s to ward off misfortune and to attract good luck. Pleated look of the scarf is actually based on Miura-ori style of origami that folds into a neat compact shape and opens into multi-dimensional textured accessory.'
quoted from Olga Buraya-Kefelian.

I met Olga on Skype through Sooz one day and she showed us her design of the Yabane scarf. I loved it and offered to test knit it for her. My most sincere apology as it is embarrassing to say that it had taken months for me to finish this project, despite the fact that it is a really simple pattern to knit. I have to admit that I am really SLOW knitter and always get stuck at the weaving in ends stage........However, the knitting part is completed, ends woven in and the piece blocked. Now I just have to wait till the weather turns cold to wear it.
I love the three-dimensional aspect of the structure and the simplicity of the design.

There was also the folded shibori/origami pattern that I came across at the workshop with Yoshiko Wada.

This book is also quite interesting. I have not tried anything from it yet, if only there are more hours in the day..........

What's more, it also reminded me of the 2-dimensional woven pattern that we  saw at the Nishijin Textile center. 

There was a display showing samples of the finished cloths.

woven samples

warp threads being prepared for dyeing

dyed warps

the 'warp shifting box'
warp threads being 'shifted' to create the arrow pattern

before

after

The pattern in the warp ready for putting onto the loom.
You can see some sort of bamboo reed to keep all the threads in place.

It is interesting to see how the pattern is formed to such precision.

Textile treats

I want to share some textiles treats that I have received from my textile/weaving mentors.

Their works are inspiring, their comments encouraging and their generosity amazing.....

I am continually learning so much from them.

Saori scarf from Kaz, at Curious weaver.

 Woven sample (large one) from Meg, at unravelling.

Textile postcard from Neki, at a movable feast.

Slow

One of the pre-conference talks was on the Slow Fiber studio, by Yoshiko Wada, and this was on the road when I came out of that talk.
Slow does not just mean slow in time, but a considered and 'thoughtful approach to the making of things'.
Some of the examples she gave were:
Jurgen Lehl and Babaghuri, Sou Sou, Issey Miyake, and Christina Kim, etc.
I am going to be 'slow' this year, not only with making but with other aspects of life. I have not quite figured out how to verbalise this but I think I know what to do...........
For me, the time between the 1st January new year and Chinese new year is often a time for reflection. It feels like time in suspension. It is new and old year co-existing. It gives me more time to catch up, more time to get my thoughts together about the year ahead.........
Happy new year to you!

8ISS: Yoshiko Jinzenji

I thoroughly enjoyed my first time at this event. The program was full of variety: contemporary, tradition, technology, processes, sustainability, and so much more. It was inspiring, intense and exhausting - both physically and mentally. I wanted to attend ALL the talks and demonstrations, but that was not possible.
Needless to say there will be a slow drip feed of information as I process things in my brain and gradually sort out my photos and papers.......
One of the speakers was Yoshiko Jinzenji.
I am not a quilter but had fallen in love with her book published by Interweave.

I did not know much of her other work outside of this book. When she gave her talk, I thought that there was a sense of deja vu and quickly realised who she was. What a revelation! As I had also bought some fabric designed by her just before I left for Hong Kong. (from Patchwork on Central Park, her designs do not show up in the online store but is available in store) 

One of her pieces at the exhibition was shibori dyed with bamboo! It gave this very subtle white on white pattern.

Who knows, quilting may be soon be on my list of things to do........

End of an Era

After 55 years and 2 generations, they will be closing at the end of January 2012.

Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

This is 'the Shop' that had been there ever since I can remember and I think that part of my love of textile comes from looking at all these different items: handkerchiefs, tablecloths, tea towels, dressing table sets, napkins, embroideries, crochets, venetian lace.......... and the opportunity to feel and touch all these textures.

vintage pure Irish linen tea towels

Fine linen napkins with organdy inserts and embroidery

"The building will be auctioned on 8th December and the shop, which was started by Raymond and Lucie Ling in 1956 and is currently operated by their son Geoff and his wife Amy, will close at the beginning of next year.

In its heyday, the Fine Art Linen Company was a mecca for young women, who would travel from all parts of Melbourne to stock up their glory boxes with the finest, hand-embroidered linen and napery from China, and stunning silk lingerie reminiscent of 1930s Hollywood.

Most people now know it as the tea-towel shop, but some of the stock that will be coming out of the back room goes back a long way and hence the quality and workmanship is far superior to modern equivalents; there are even some vintage 1960s teatowels!" 

written by Helena Ling

These things may not be everyone's cup of tea anymore but if you are nearby, pop in and have a look. If you mention you have seen this blog post, there may be an extra discount for you!

By the way, Raymond who founded the shop was my grandfather! He started exporting wool to China and imported napery/linen to Australia.

A flying visit: Wien

Literally, to the other side of the world, 
24 hours away,
to visit my best friend,
for 7 days ( 3 in Wien and 3 in Praha with a train trip in between),
bone tired and did not do my share of reading up on the guide books..........
I think that in the end, all is forgiven as she actually likes being in charge of the map and had booked a hotel that is just round the corner from one of the top yarn shops in Vienna!
Zwei Glatt Zwei Verkhert (Knit 2 Purl 2), Josefstaedterstrasse 14, 8th district 

It had a wonderful display in the shop windows, and yes, I bought yarn. Some beautiful Danish linen/cotton and silk/cotton yarns by Karen Noe. 

We walked and walked. It turned out to be a bit of a tour of the work of Vienna Secession architects: Otto Wagner, Adolf Loos, Josef Hoffman, Josef Maria Olbrich.

I went to the 'Vienna: art and design' exhibition at the NGVI, in Melbourne. So to see all these buildings, decorative arts and fabrics in real life was amazing.

The post office by Hoffman is totally a double weave inspiration waiting to happen. I can visualise it in linen and even see the folds and block pattern emerging on my loom. Well, maybe next year the rate I seem to produce anything..... I think that my imagination runs far, far ahead of reality.
With our good fortune, we found a brochure in the hotel lobby of the 'Wiener Werkstätte' museum. It is in the basement of the Backhausen fabric company showroom.

There are displays of fabric samples, original design work, and in the showroom upstairs, you can buy fabric that are still in production. Of course, I bought fabric....... This, I think if you are interested in textile, is well worth a visit.

Ginkgo O Ginkgo

The Ginkgo (銀杏) is one of my favourite trees and I wish that I could have one in my garden. However, I am a brown thumb and the only things that tend to grow in my garden are the undesirables termed as 'weeds'.
It is close to a year since I was last in Japan, there the Ginkgo trees are found in lots of places, as street trees where they are young, contained, pruned and grow quite straight.

In temple grounds where they are ancient specimens,  propped up, fenced off and protected.

 I love the fan shaped leaves and the colours as they turn in Autumn.

I love how easy it is to use it as a motif in design.

There is this talented textile print studio, Ink and Spindle in Melbourne that has translated this motif so well...... 

I have been making cushions out of their 'ginkgo' range, some for presents for friends living overseas and one for myself to keep! I have inserted invisible zips in the seam and sewed up the corners to create the box shape. Easy!

More exhibitions: Part II

And then there are the embroidered purses. They are small pieces, approx 15x 10cm (6x4 inches).
More decorative than practical use.

More exhibitions: Part I

I was fortunate enough to see this when I was in Hong Kong over Christmas. It is part of the permanent exhibition so if anyone is there, it is worth a visit. (and entry is free on a wednesday).
I found out that photography was allowed in this exhibition (no flash, of course) and I went back the next day with my camera. The lighting level is higher than I expected compared to those at exhibitions in Australia, but it helped with the photography.

This cylindrical shaped object is a thumb ring holder, so you can imagine the scale of the object. The diameter is just close to one inch.


This fan has a woven floral image with a straight twill background. It is such a subtle design and the carving on the handle is a continuation of the floral pattern.


The following 4 images are that of 'cloud collars'. They are primarily decorative but can also prevent grease stain from the hair getting onto the dress collar! The shapes are interesting as are the different decorative styles.

This last item is a headgear called a 'tianzi'. It is decorated with pearls, semi-precious stone and inlaid with kingfisher feathers. All the turquoise coloured parts are made of feathers.

In this last image, you can see the grain of the feather. The workmanship is spectacular.

Aloo Too

While not much actual weaving has been done, and not any blog posts had been written, I have been busy reading. I really appreciated Peg's weekly updates of what is interesting and the vast array of topics that have been posted by everyone.

When I saw Taueret's title, I thought it sounded familiar. I looked into my treasure box of unusual fabric and found the pieces that a very dear friend gave to me. She got these while in Nepal doing some voluntary teaching.

This first piece is knitted in a delicate lace pattern. However, due to the nature of the yarn, it is quite scratchy. It is a scarf that I have worn on the outside of the coat rather than close to the neck.

The second piece is a cut length of woven fabric, about 76cm wide (30 inches) and 108cm (3.6ft) long. It has a mid-blue warp and the weft is of natural aloo (nettle) yarn.

Depending on the lighting, the aloo natural colour or the blue woollen warp yarn is more dominant. I wonder what sort of loom it was woven on and how long it took. I wonder what the cloth was intended for.

When the piece of cloth is laid out, it is easy to see the irregularities but it just adds another layer to the character of the cloth.